… continued from Tokyo: Poisoned!!! (4/5)
Today we’re going to the hot spring (onsen)!! You can’t go to Japan and not visit an onsen, especially in winter! Since Japan sits on one of the most thermally active areas in the world, there are 20,000 natural hot springs all over the country. To get to experience this is very exciting. And guess what: I wake up this morning and I’m feeling almost back to normal. Yippy.
There are no natural hot springs in the city, only sento – public baths usually using heated water from the tap and not from a real hot spring (for a list of sento in Tokyo, click here.) For an authentic onsen experience, you need to travel out of the city. We decide on Oedo-Onsen Monogatari – we just take the Yurikamome line from Shimbashi to the Telecom Centre. The onsen is open almost 24 hours so there’s no rush. So the plan is: Shinjuku first, onsen later.

We get to Shinjuku station in the morning and let me tell you, I can understand why it’s the Busiest Train Station In The World. It’s teeming with people and my god, it’s HUGE! You’ll get lost in there. There are so many exits you won’t know where to go. Take the wrong one and you’ll come out onto the wrong street and never get to where you wanna go. Even when we asked the hotel reception earlier, the manager assured us that yes, we will indeed get lost. I guess it’s all part of the Shinjuku Station experience!

We visit Isetan – very different from the Isetan we have in KL.


An interesting feature is that they have an entire floor dedicated to just desserts! The most adorable cakes and pastries and chocolates you’ve ever seen, all packaged to perfection.


We also drop by Muji, a wildly popular local chain of convenience stores. Everything sits nicely in clear vacuum-sealed bags, rows and rows of them neatly lined on the shelves, all positioned in the same angle. That’s how everything is in Japan: uniformed.

Everything is individually wrapped – cakes, bagels, biscuits, fruit, three pieces of cotton, you name it.

While they look pretty, they also look very … clinical. Overly sanitary. Mass-produced. Let’s put it this way, can you imagine buying pisang goreng individually wrapped in plastic? It’s a crime, I tell you.
By now, having eaten nothing since morning, I’m starting to feel faint. But I’m scared to eat cos I don’t want to throw up again. So, I buy two bananas (individually wrapped, of course) @ RM5 each. The most expensive bananas I’ve ever eaten.
With a new surge of energy from my expensive bananas, we get a bit carried away in Shinjuku. At about 2pm, we finally make our way to the onsen. We lose our way and by the time we reach the Telecom Centre station, it’s past 5pm and quite dark already. Luckily, the onsen‘s only 2 minutes away from the station.


The moment we reach the onsen, I fall in love with it. It’s beautiful! And big!

We go in, remove our boots and leave them in the lockers. Then, first order of the evening: pay the admission fee of 2,900 yen (about RM150).

After paying, we go this counter where an old man is waiting in front of a row of yukatas. We pick the designs we want, along with a belt (obi) and proceed to the changing room.

The lockers in the changing room feature the famous 1831 wave painting The Breaking Wave Off Kanagawa by Katsushika Hokusai.

From here on, you change into your yukata (and nothing else) and then, you’re free to roam anywhere you want within the premises.


There are little restaurants …


… and souvenir shops everywhere. Since I hadn’t bought anything the day before (thanks to being poisoned), I go a little crazy in the souvenir stores. Every time I buy something, they scan my wrist tag. Because my cash is in the locker, I only pay when I exit. Quite dangerous. You can easily get carried away and lose track of how much you spend (which is precisely their intention).


So anyways, as I was saying … it’s all very pretty, there’s a soft glow on everything, very romantic.

Unfortunately, I’m there with two chicks. Aish.


After shopping, we grab a bite to eat.

Now, a hot springs experience begins with a foot spa, so that’s where we start. We throw these thick orange ‘jackets’ over our thin yukatas. Once we open the sliding doors, the gust of icy cold wind hits us. Omg, it’s freezing outside!!


You’d think you’d freeze standing around in the winter cold at night at something like 0 degrees … but step into the almost knee-high boiling water for a few moments and your entire body warms up.

It feels really good. And soon, you’re as toasty as a bun in the oven. There’s also a little hut where you can have a doctor fish experience but at extra charge. I did this back in KL before (it was fun!) so I don’t fork out money for this.

After one round around the garden, we hurry back inside and move on to the hot springs area. Now, taking a bath is a very serious ritual here in Japan, so you can’t play-play. These are three important points:
1. Don’t wear anything in the bath. I don’t think I need to elaborate on this point.
2. Take a bath first. There are rows of bath stations equipped with a mirror, a low wooden stool, a bucket and toiletries. You must be 100% squeaky clean before entering the pools – even a trace of soap on your body is considered unacceptable. This is the first time I’m bathing in public while seated and you know what? I actually like it! Or maybe it’s not the sitting down part that I like so much as the fact that I’m bathing in front of a mirror – haha.
3. When in the pool, sit quietly. Don’t thrash around, make a lot of noise or splash water at people. In other words, don’t be a jakun.
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Now, I can’t bring my camera into the pool area (for obvious reasons), so you have no choice but to imagine the scene based on my wondrous description.
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There are two hot springs areas – indoor and outdoor (rotenburo). The indoor one is a spacious floor area with various pools – some aboveground, some below, in different shapes and sizes. The colour of the water in each one differs, depending on the mineral content. They’re meant for different purposes too – from arthritis to stress, backache to indigestion, etc. Your vision is clouded by thick steam and there are naked women everywhere, some of whom are pretty hot. There, that should paint a picture that’ll stick in your mind for a while.
We soak in almost every pool. It feels soooooo good to just immerse yourself in the hot bubbling water. You feel all your stress and anxiety just melting away. Ahh … this is the life …
After about 30 minutes in the pools, we decide it’s time to get out. It’s so hot and steamy, it’s like being in a sauna … and you can only last for so long. Besides, it’s getting late and we need to catch the train before midnight.
Before we leave the locker area though, we spy a weighing scale near a row of Osim-type masage chairs. Being female, it’s hard to walk past it without hopping on. I rarely weigh myself (my body weight gauge isn’t the scale, it’s denim) but my weight doesn’t fluctuate, so I kinda know what my figure is. But tonight, I step on and holy cow, I’m 48kg!! Good lord. Talk about underweight. Must be all that throwing up. I guess I just gotta pile the pounds back on when I get home!

So anyway, after we’re done, we head back out to return our yukatas and pay up. Walking in the cold winter air that night, we don’t feel cold at all. Body temperature has been elevated!

It’s quite a long trip back and I’m kinda tired (too relaxed from the bath), by the time we reach the hotel.

I sort through all the stuff I bought at the onsen … then settle into bed. Tomorrow’s our flight back to KL and we need to check out at 6.30am and get on the bus at 7am to Narita Airport. So better sleep!
The thing is, I suddenly become wide awake. I’m lying in bed and can’t sleep at all. 12am. 1am. 2am. My stomach starts to growl. I haven’t eaten anything but a banana in the morning and a few pieces of sushi at dinner, so I’m famished.

Luckily, I have a ball of sticky rice wrapped in seaweed that I have stashed in the fridge. I grope my way in the dark to the fridge to get it. So there I am, at about 3am, sitting up in my bed eating a rice ball, trying to make as little noise as possible – not easy when it’s wrapped in really noisy plastic. I make so much noise I wake Liling up (oops).


After I finish the rice ball, my stomach feels better and I immediately fall asleep. Two hours later, the alarm rings and we hop out of bed and spring into action. Soon, we’re in the bus on the way to Narita and by 11am, we’re nicely buckled in the plane and headed back home.

On the way home, I watch Vicky Cristina Barcelona and Night At The Museum (for those of you who are interested in this sort of thing) …


… time flies and before we know it, we’ve landed.
The first thing I do in KL is have kiam-chai t’ng. Then I unpack. Then I check my email. Then I decide that I must go back to Japan again … five days is seriously not enough – especially when one day was spent working and another spent being sick. Having said that, I think Japan will have to wait for now though, cos I’ll be headed to Cambodia next Saturday!!!
Click here for previous posts Tokyo: Disneyland (1/5), Tokyo: Shiseido (2/5), Tokyo: Harajuku (3/5), Tokyo: Poisoned!!! (4/5)




























































We line up to go on rides …
… we visit the souvenir shops …
… we check out the merchandise …

… we have lunch …
… we visit the parking lots …

… we play Hidden Mickey …










