I put on my sarong and tie the sash around my waist. It’s 6am and I’m off to the beach for my Purification Bath. The sacred water – which includes water from Tirta Empul – had already been prepared yesterday evening and left to infuse overnight. I’ll be ‘bathed’ in it this morning.

Pic by Marcus Wong
I head to the beach and … it … was … cold … and … l … don’t … like … cold. I hurry down to find Fauzi and Waya, the priest, waiting. I’m to bathe in the sea first. “You can just wet your head, face and feet if you wish, but it’s better if you take the plunge and get completely soaked,” Fauzi tells me.

Being kiasu (I was Singaporean in a past life), of course I want the maximum benefit from the ritual, so I go all the way nearly freeze to bits. I get out of the sea, shivering.

Pic by Marcus Wong
Back on the beach, Waya tells me to stand facing him, hands held together in a praying position and close my eyes. I do. Then I feel the first scoop of icy cold water splash down the top of my head, drenching my already soaked body. I’m so cold, it might as well have been a bucket load of ice! Chanting softly, Waya continues to scoop water from the pot and pour it on me. On and on he goes … he will do this till the water in the pot finishes. The thing is, it’s one BIG pot. I try to be yogi-like and think pure thoughts but all I can think is that I just may pengsan from hypothermia.
After about 15 scoops, the pot is empty. Waya tells me to open my eyes. There are flowers on my head, shoulders and arms, and all over the ground where I’m standing. He places a magnolia behind my right ear and a generous pinch of grains in my hands. “Place a few grains between your brows,” he says. “This is to keep you seeing only good things. Place a few grains in between your collarbone so that your heart radiates goodness. And swallow a few grains so that you only speak good things.” I’m not sure about that last one but I eagerly swallow half a dozen grains – a little supernatural help can’t hurt.
I’m bundled up in a big fluffy towel and sent back to my villa. I smell yummy. I take a quick shower and head out to breakfast – need a full stomach for my Final Day Facial & Hair Treatment ma.

I start off with the Mesipat facial, a traditional Balinese beautification ritual which involves sandalwood and tamarind leaves. The face is exfoliated with grains of rice and massaged with mini floral pouches.

Then, there is the Mekramas hair treatment where my scalp is massaged with coconut oil and candlenut. After the massage, a mixture of hibiscus leaves and aloe vera is applied onto my hair and my head wrapped in banana leaf and secured with bits of ‘lidi’ – just like a packet of nasi lemak, only bigger. Walking out, my heads feels about 10 pounds overweight.

This is my headgear, taken off after 15 minutes … kan I dah kata macam sebungkus nasi lemak?

… and the result of my hibiscus-leaves-and-aloe-vera treated hair: ta-da! A python-like coil on the top of my head. It’s so sturdy even a bout of semi-violent shaking doesn’t upset the do.
It takes me 30 minutes to shower and pack. Our plan is to drop by Ubud on our way to the airport. So, the earlier we get there, the more time we (by we, I mean me) have to browse around (by browse , I mean shop). After making our goodbye and thank you rounds at the spa, we arrive in Ubud with 1.5 hours to wander around aimlessly. Which is exactly what I do. By myself.
I’m not very good at doing things on my own. I don’t like it. It makes me nervous. Whether this is an indication of some deeper psychological childhood-related disorder, I will explore in another post. For now, I’m alone in Ubud and not liking it terribly much. Not until I make my first purchase (a bright red pair of fisherman pants!), after which I feel a lot more relaxed and … less lonely. I wonder what says about my mental/emotional state?
I’m walking along the road and except for the occasional calls offering taxi service, nobody bothers me or pesters me to buy stuff, which is a definite plus in my books. Situated in the middle of the island, in the midst of rice paddies, Ubud is Bali’s cultural capital and has been so for over 100 years.

With three main streets, the central town area is made up of what appears to be hundreds of tiny little stores – from artsy coves selling beautiful paintings to workshop-type holes peddling sculptures to kitschy souvenir stores …

… there are chic little boutiques and shops displaying beach dresses, sarongs, kaftans and fisherman pants by the truckload …

… all tossed in with quaint little cafés, restaurants, guesthouses and B&Bs – each with a distinct personality of its own.

I’m walking on the sidewalk, which is no more than a mere 2 feet wide. There are plenty of loose bricks, holes and uneven steps, so I trip every now and then. I can imagine walking around at night – better watch your step! There are also dogs everywhere. They don’t really bother you although the idea of a big black dog and his hyperactive friends jogging along at your heels can be unnerving.

By 5pm, it’s time to leave for the airport. The roads are clear, so we get there with time to spare. Which isn’t an entirely good thing cos the airport is – sadly – boring. There are too many souvenir shops and not enough F&B outlets. Next to none, in fact. So instead of relaxing in a café and waiting over a cup of steaming coffee, we wind up sitting restlessly on a steel bench for over an hour.
Out of boredom, I go shopping and I use the term ‘shopping’ loosely. I buy a packet of prawn crackers, two boxes of Pocky chocolate sticks and a pack of Pringles. I know. Five days of fresh fruit juices and organic food shot straight to hell. I bite into a prawn cracker. It doesn’t taste good. I’m bored, so I eat it anyway.
Just when we’re about to board the flight, an announcement comes: flight will be delayed. $$@%$@#$%^&#%WTF!!! So much for the purification bath, huh? I spend a few minutes cursing at Air Asia before opening up my pack of Pringles. I bite into a potato crisp. It doesn’t taste good. I’m bored, so I eat it anyway.
We finally board an hour later. It’s boring on the flight too, which is why I while away the time eating Pocky and feeling sorry for the flight attendants. I know Air Asia is a low-cost carrier and all that but I simply can’t get over the whole selling of food/drinks and cenderamata onboard. It’s just tacky, like operating a pasar malam 30,000 feet in the air. Why would anyone would buy Oreo cookies or Maggi mee or whatever while on the plane? The only thing to buy I’d buy (and only cos they confiscated my water bottle earlier) is water. And that’s already sold out. Hey!!!
Seriously, the purification bath from this morning isn’t working.
I buy iced tea instead. It doesn’t taste good but I drink it anyway cos I’m thirsty. Now, back to why I feel sorry for the flight attendants: they’re peddlers of tacky crap. I mean, selling a cup of Milo or Kit Kat is kesian enough; they also have to hawk Air Asia merchandise (hence the tacky crap).
“Any food or drinks (or tacky crap) to purchase,” they drone, vacant looks on their faces. With any purchase, the attendants then take money and give change from a red plastic pouch. Like hawkers. And if people order hot drinks, they mechanically slice off the top of the sachet, pour hot water into a Styrofoam cup and pass it to you, throwing the empty sachet into the makeshift dustbin hanging off the corner of the cart.
And they do all this while clad in tight red uniforms, faces coated with thick makeup, cheeks stamped with bright pink powder, false eyelashes dangling crookedly from tired blue-shadowed lids, bleached hair with untouched roots … and sometimes, they wear a little too much perfume – something you’re unpleasantly reminded of every time they march past you in the aisle.
So yeah, I feel bad for them. They’re flight attendants, not tacky merchandise mongers. I’m beginning to feel what I believe are the first stirrings of … compassion. I don’t think I’ve ever felt this before. It feels … strange and … rather pleasant. Whoa. Maybe the purification bath is working its magic after all.